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A timber gate dropped out of square in a boundary fence
How-To · Diagnose First

How to Fix
a Sagging Gate

A dropped gate is one of three problems, and the fix for each is different. Diagnosing it takes two minutes and stops you doing the wrong repair twice.

Three causes, three different fixes
A two-minute diagnosis
What holds, and what does not
When replacing beats repairing
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The Short Answer

Three causes, and how to tell them apart

A gate carries its whole weight on two or three hinge points, and it swings, so it is the only part of a fence under constant moving load. When it drops, the cause is the post, the hinges or the frame, and you have to know which before you fix anything.

Close the gate and look at the gap along the latch side. If the gap is even and the gate still will not latch, the post has moved. If the gap is wider at the top than the bottom, the gate frame has racked out of square. If the gate sits low but stays square, the hinges have worn or pulled.

Check the hinge post the same way you check any post: push it. Gate posts fail more often than ordinary posts, because they carry the load and the constant movement, and a leaning gate post is the most common cause of the whole problem.

One important exception: a pool gate that no longer self-closes and self-latches from every position is a compliance failure, not a maintenance annoyance. Fix that immediately rather than putting it on a list.

Even gap, will not latch: the post has moved
Gap wider at the top: the frame has racked
Gate low but square: hinges worn or pulled
Gate posts fail sooner than ordinary posts
A pool gate that will not self-latch is urgent
The latch side of a gate showing an uneven gap against the post
The Diagnosis

What the symptom tells you

Match what your gate is doing to the row, then use the fix in the last column.

SymptomLikely causeThe fix that holds
Even gap, will not reach the latchHinge post has leanedRe-set or replace the post. Nothing else lasts
Gap wider at the top than the bottomFrame has racked out of squareFit an anti-sag brace or cable across the frame
Gate sits low but is still squareHinges worn, or screws pulled outHeavier hinges, longer fixings into solid timber
Drags on the ground in winter onlyGround movement, or a swollen frameAdjust clearance, check drainage at the post
Hinges rusted or seizedWrong hardware for the exposureReplace with galvanised or stainless
Timber gate has split at the jointsFrame is failingUsually replace the gate. Repairs rarely hold
Pool gate does not self-close fullyHinge tension lostReplace the hinges. Urgent, not optional

The diagnosis matters because the wrong fix fails quickly. Bracing a gate whose post has leaned does nothing at all, and it is the most common wasted repair on this job.

The Repair

Fixing it so it stays fixed

Diagnose before you touch it, gate installation step 11
2 minutes

Diagnose before you touch it

Close the gate, look at the gap, push the hinge post. Two minutes here decides whether you need a brace, new hinges or a new post, and stops you doing the wrong one.

Deal with the post first, gate installation step 22
Half a day if needed

Deal with the post first

If the post has moved, nothing else matters. Re-setting or replacing it in concrete is the only fix that holds. Bracing a gate on a leaning post is wasted work.

Square the frame, gate installation step 33
1 hour

Square the frame

A racked timber frame is pulled square with a diagonal brace or tension cable running from the top hinge corner down to the opposite bottom corner. Direction matters; the wrong diagonal makes it worse.

Upgrade the hinges, gate installation step 44
30 minutes

Upgrade the hinges

Heavier hinges with longer fixings into solid timber, three hinges rather than two on a heavy gate. Galvanised or stainless if it is exposed. Most sagging gates were under-hinged from day one.

Set the clearance and latch, gate installation step 55
20 minutes

Set the clearance and latch

Leave enough clearance at the bottom for ground movement and swelling. On a pool gate, check it self-closes and self-latches from every position, including barely ajar.

What Actually Holds

Four things that decide whether the repair lasts

Gates are the part of a fence we get called back to most, almost always because the original build under-specified one of these.

A gate hung square on three heavy hinges after repair
Post firstThen the frame
The Order That Matters

Fix the post before you touch the gate

Most failed gate repairs are correct work done in the wrong order. If the post has moved, everything you do to the gate is temporary.

Bigger post

Gate posts are not fence posts

A gate post carries the gate weight plus the leverage of every swing. It needs to be larger and set deeper than the fence posts either side. If it was the same size, that is why it moved.

Three hinges

Two hinges is not enough

On anything heavier than a light pedestrian gate, three hinges spread the load and stop the top one tearing out. It costs almost nothing at build and prevents the most common failure.

The diagonal

Bracing the wrong way

A diagonal brace must run from the top hinge corner down to the bottom latch corner in compression, or top latch to bottom hinge in tension for a cable. The wrong diagonal accelerates the sag.

Urgent

Pool gates are a different category

A pool gate that does not self-close and self-latch from every position fails compliance immediately. It is the single most common reason Victorian pools fail inspection.

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Straight Answers

Sagging gate questions

What people ask when a gate stops closing properly.

Get the gate looked at

One of three things: the hinge post has leaned, the gate frame has racked out of square, or the hinges have worn or pulled out. Check the gap along the latch side and push the hinge post to tell which.

No Obligation

Gate dragging or not latching?

We diagnose the post, the frame and the hinges before quoting, so the repair holds rather than coming back in six months.

Call 0439 149 992